I have fallen in love with women’s fashion again and it is largely thanks to Mr Enninful’s UK Vogue. I now subscribe and it is like sunshine after rain. I think we endured more than twenty years of Alexandra Shulman’s Vogue. It felt like ninety. Dreary middle class, middle aged women do not great fashion magazines make. I recall an old editor of Easy Living telling me Diana Vereeland would never be employed today because it is all about the advertiser. Shows how wrong you can be.
Edward Enninful has brought the joy back into fashion. The designers have also helped. I love, love, love Nicholas Ghesquiere’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection for Louis Vuitton. The frock coasts with trainers are a joy. Thank you Mr Enninful for giving Grace Coddington her first UK Vogue shoot since she left in the 1980s to follow Anna Wintour to US Vogue. Grace gave us high Victoriana with trainers in a breathtakingly beautiful shoot.
The Enninful covers are just getting better and better. Gugu Mbatha Raw channelling Billie Holiday for the April edition was just sublime. I loved the fashion in the shoot and the jewellery was something else, baby. Kate Moss played a blinder with her Rude Girl Rock shoot in Brighton although I will say a lot of Adowa Abooboo goes a long, ling way. Her Burberry crown advert is as hideous as Chris Bailey’s rainbow-hued last collection. We all look better with a bit of slap on.
Kate Phelan’s styling of Anya Taylor Joy was divine. I am also loving Saint Laurent’s ostrich feather collection. It is softer and prettier than the Hedy Slimane years. I would like more Vogue for my money with every issue as big as a March or a September. It is a bit thin. Then again, I cannot get on with Katie Grand’s Vogue stablemate Love at Condé Nast.
Whereas Mr Enninful is redressing the black and white model balance with his Vogue, Katie Grand seems to be taking a Mia Farrow approach and casting anything as long as it is multi-cultural. It’s all a bit Benetton in the 1990s. It is also a bit lesbian with hundreds of pages of single shots of female models with nary a cock for spreads. Can we have some drag or some cute boys to dull the boredom? Love is very insider. It is all about girl power in the fashion industry. There was a cockamamie shoot of a Kardashian photographed by her mother and styled by her sister. Oh fuck the fuck off.
Love also seems to have Adowa Aboah on every other page and when she wasn’t popping up it was Cindy Crawford’s so-so daughter Kaia Gerber who is not a patch on her glamorous mother. Mind you, all respect for Panos Yipanis’s styling and Tim Walker’s photography for the MoominGoth shoot. It was weird and wonderful in a way that Alexandra Shulman could not have gone with in her wildest dreams or nightmares. I love Mr Enninful for not going weird apart from a picture pf the ghastly Juergen Teller in his pants with his pot belly at the back of the book.
The great joy of Mr Enninful’s Vogue is that the ex-Chairman Nicholas Coleridge’s god daughter Cara Delevingne seems to have been axed as the model-du-jour. She’s in an ad for beauty cream called Capture Youth. Oh please my nerves. She’s all of twenty-one and not that pretty. Perhaps the West London mafia has had its day and Mr Enninful can make Vogue the internationally cool magazine it always was before the desperate years.
The jwellery in UK Vogue is superlative. I didn’t love edgy diamonds and black leather: all too Sister George for me. Why put sensational diamonds on a girl who looks like she is more at home with a monkey wrench? Diamonds are glamour. They deserve haute couture. I am sure Mr Enninful will give us the hautest couture in upcoming issues. I also wish he would style more in his issues. He’s up there with Grace as a visionary fashion editor.
I would think that Anna Wintour would be quaking in her Manolos to see UK Vogue go from strength to strength. Mr Enninful is making US Vogue look like a J. C. Penny catalogue. Perhaps new blood is necessary now Anna has her initials carved in the wall of the Metropolitan Museum and her title as Deutchland Uber Alles magazines in the US Condé Nast organisation.
I like big change. I am really feeling it at the moment apropos of which I am off to Menorca for the month of April to stay in my friend Jillo’s apartment and work in a bar to calm my mind and body. I come back to London to do the Royal Wedding for ABC Australia and a documentary about Princess Margaret for the history channel. Maybe I will be back on Royal Ascot with ITV. Stranger things. I definitely want to be back on ITV This Morning with Holy and Philip when Jewellery for Gentlemen is published in September.
So onward and upward. I am contemplating a move back to Clapham North this summer. The demographic is blacks, gays and old South Londoners. What’s not to like? I am fed the fuck up with Bloomsbury being like Chengdu with all the Chinese in their face masks buying up all the property and having no spacial awareness. This is not racist. It is a sad comment on rich tourism and education in the UK being pillaged by the yellow peril with deep pockets. Time for me to go I think.
Until next time…